To the east of Havana, it is the beach with the finest sand, and here and there welcome palm trees. We bring our beers, sandwiches… and, lying on the sand, we tan while waiting for the sunset. Not far away, another beach called Mi Cayito sports the flag of the LGBT community. Frequented for years by its members, this beach was chosen to celebrate the country's first Gay Pride. Today, all Cubans, much more tolerant than before, go there.
Finding where to dance and learn to dance isn't complicated in a city where almost every inhabitant could be a teacher of salsa, merengue and even reggaetown, the new national musical passion. Ten minutes from the city center, the Casa de la Musica de Miramar is a trendy nightclub to discover ideally on concert evenings. Orchestras and trendy salsa and timba cubana bands perform here. Their concerts turn into a real collective dance session. Cultural program at:suenacubano.com/cartelera/.
20 No. 3308 esq. at 35, Miramar.
In Cuba, music, culture, literature and dance are closely linked to religiosity and popular beliefs born of the mixture between Catholic Spain and Yoruba Africa. Over the years, these beliefs, lived in secret by a population held to be atheists in the light of day, have become a complete religious system, with its rules, its priests, its places of worship. We first learn in the city center at the Orisha Museum, cultural headquarters of the Yoruba Association of Cuba (Paseo del Prado No 615, e / Calle Montes y Calle Dragones, Centro Habana district) then we go by bicitaxi (see below) at Callejon de Hamel, in the same Centro Habana district. The facades of this alley represent stories of orishas painted with bright colors by Salvador Gonzalez Escalona, self-taught artist, but also real contemporary art installations. Santeros, all in white and wearing many colorful necklaces around their necks, walk around there. Guaguanco concerts (black music to the sound of claves, cajons, bells and congas) occur every Sunday at noon. No body resists the call of this music, maternal ancestor of salsa. Dancing is an obligation to get rid of bad energies!
Take off
Air France offers 2 direct flights per day. Reservations:travelby.airfrance.com and 36 54.
Move
By taxi. Ideal for long journeys, between the city center and the eastern beaches or to the western districts of Havana, such as Miramar, for example.
In bicitaxi (tricyle with an awning). The drivers, real pedalo athletes, often ride to the rhythm of reggaetown. Count less than 5 CUC (4 €) for a walk from the Capitol to the center of Old Havana.
By coco-taxi. In these funny three-wheeled motorcycle taxis in the shape of a coconut, the driver is required to have a meter, but it is better to negotiate the price beforehand. 15 CUC (13 €) max for a walk from Coppelia to Old Havana along the Malecòn.
Accommodation and stay
Book on Airbnb.fr or Casaparticular.com and choose a studio with terrace (from €20 per night) in the Vedado or Old Havana district.
We're leaving with voyageursdumonde.fr:"Cuba at home, confidential &arty Havana".
Listen
“Hasta que seque el Malecón”, Jacob Forever. "V en Fri", Raul Paz. "Ibeyi", from the Ibeyi sisters.
Browse
“From Florida to Cuba”, by Marion Dubier-Clark, Ed. Watermarks/L’Heure Dite, €29.
