East of Havana, Santa Maria del Mar boasts the finest white sands, shaded here and there by welcoming palm trees. We pack our beers and sandwiches, stretch out on the beach to tan, and watch for the sunset. Nearby, Mi Cayito beach flies the LGBT community flag. A longtime favorite, it hosted Cuba's first Gay Pride and now draws all Cubans, signaling greater tolerance.
In Havana, where nearly every local could teach salsa, merengue, or reggaetón—the island's latest craze—finding dance spots is easy. Just 10 minutes from downtown, Casa de la Música de Miramar is the hotspot, especially on concert nights. Top orchestras deliver sizzling salsa and timba cubana, turning shows into communal dance parties. Check the schedule at suenacubano.com/cartelera/.
20 No. 3308 esq. at 35, Miramar.
Cuba's music, culture, literature, and dance intertwine with religiosity from the blend of Catholic Spain and Yoruba Africa. Once practiced secretly by an officially atheist populace, these beliefs evolved into a full religious system with rules, priests, and temples. Start at the Orisha Museum, cultural hub of the Yoruba Association of Cuba (Paseo del Prado No 615, e / Calle Montes y Calle Dragones, Centro Habana). Then hop a bicitaxi to Callejón de Hamel in the same district. Local artist Salvador González Escalona has painted vivid orisha tales on the facades, creating immersive contemporary installations. Santeros in white robes and colorful beaded necklaces roam the alley. Every Sunday at noon, guaguancó concerts (roots of salsa, with claves, cajones, bells, and congas) draw crowds—no one resists, and dancing clears bad energies!
Flights
Air France flies direct twice daily. Book at travelby.airfrance.com or call 36 54.
Getting Around
By taxi: Perfect for longer trips, like from downtown to eastern beaches or Miramar in the west.
By bicitaxi (pedal-powered tricycle with awning): These athletic drivers often groove to reggaetón. Under 5 CUC (4 €) from the Capitol to Old Havana.
By coco-taxi: Fun coconut-shaped three-wheelers; insist on the meter or negotiate ahead—max 15 CUC (13 €) from Coppelia to Old Havana via the Malecón.
Stay
Book via Airbnb.fr or Casaparticular.com—a studio with terrace in Vedado or Old Havana starts at €20/night.
Or join voyageursdumonde.fr's "Cuba at home, confidential & arty Havana" tour.
Listen
“Hasta que seque el Malecón” by Jacob Forever; "V en Fri" by Raul Paz; "Ibeyi" by the Ibeyi sisters.
Read
“From Florida to Cuba” by Marion Dubier-Clark, Ed. Watermarks/L’Heure Dite, €29.
