Once a favorite of celebrities like Ernest Hemingway, who claimed the El Floridita bar at the street's start as his headquarters, Calle Obispo culminates at Plaza de Armas and its historic palaces. We encounter vibrant flower sellers and auctioneers, "santeras" – practitioners of Afro-Cuban Orisha worship – channeling tropical mystics with oversized cigars, white headscarves, card readings, and hibiscus blooms behind their ears. Just outside the Ambos Mundos hotel, Hemingway's early Havana retreat, a WiFi hotspot symbolizes Cuba's gradual opening. Locals crowd in for Skype and WhatsApp calls to family abroad. It's 2 CUC (under 2€) for 30 minutes of sluggish access.
In Vedado, west of Old Havana, this iconic park features a statue of Beatles legend John Lennon, serenely watching life unfold. Young Habaneros – who never knew the era when Beatles music was banned as "rebellious" – flock here for photos. The ground bears Imagine's refrain: "You may say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one." We follow suit, asking the statue's guardian to place Lennon's glasses for an authentic shot.
Intersection of 17th and 8th Streets, Vedado district.
Since 1966, Coppelia – simply "the" ice cream spot to locals – has been a social hub for meetings, chats, joyful lines, and generous scoops of creamier, sweeter tropical flavors. The opening scenes of Strawberry and Chocolate were filmed here. We circle to the shorter queue, asking "el último?" to join properly. Note: Pay in national pesos, not CUC.
Intersection of L and 23rd Streets, Vedado district.
