As a hybrid cargo and passenger vessel, Norway's Coastal Express has connected Kirkenes and Bergen since 1893, operating day and night year-round. It delivers goods and mail to 34 ports along the coast while carrying passengers for the full journey or short hops. Despite my tendency for seasickness, I barely felt queasy: equipped with stabilizers, the ship stays close to the sheltered waters between the mainland and islands. Onboard comfort is top-notch—no dress code, but pack a down jacket for deck time or a swimsuit for the outdoor jacuzzi. Soaking in -17°C waters amid snowy fjords? Unforgettable.
Layer up right: thermal base layers, wool socks, fleece, down jacket, and a balaclava for face protection. In Kirkenes, just minutes from the Russian border, I prepped for the chill with a night at the Ice Hotel (open December to April). It offers sled rides too. The challenge? Undressing in -7°C to slip into base layers, T-shirt, socks, balaclava, sleeping bag, and duvet. After the first 10 minutes, warmth sets in—but mobility is limited, and midnight bathroom trips are tricky.
Onboard, it's relaxed: learn nautical knots, attend lectures, and gaze at endless snow-clad fjords. Stopovers bring excitement. In Mehamn, I snowmobiled at 1 a.m. through polar night to rejoin the ship in Kjøllefjord at 4 a.m. Tromsø's midnight concert in the Arctic Cathedral was moving, and the Polar Museum highlighted the grueling early expeditions to Norway's far north.
Board meals shone with fresh, smoked, or marinated salmon, reindeer sausages, and roast elk with cranberries. But king crab in Kirkenes stole the show. After snowmobiling to a frozen fjord, we broke ice to haul up baskets of crabs—some up to 15 kg. Post-photo, the guide dispatched them with a Sami knife, then we cooked and savored the juicy flesh 30 minutes later. Regal indeed!
The 'Hunting the Light' cruise excels for aurora viewing—far from light pollution. From 9 p.m., all head to the deck for green rays, cold be damned. I botched my photos sans preparation; next time: tripod, manual mode, f/2.8 aperture, ISO 800+, under 15s exposure.
Kirkenes-Bergen (6 days/5 nights) from €1,122/person in a double inside cabin, full board, excluding flights (departures 01.01-31.03.2015, book by 31.01.15) with Hurtigruten. Kirkenes-Tromsø from €152/person with breakfast in inside cabin. Custom trips available, including car rental.
