Ask any Rhétais—the proud locals of Île de Ré—and they'll rattle off their favorite beaches, highlighting the island's stunning coastline. Insist a bit, and Plage de Patache in Trousse-Chemise consistently rises to the top. Here, locals "do the Mao," surrendering to the powerful current that sweeps you along the shore. It's exhilarating if you go with the flow—fighting it is futile—sticking close to the water's edge. Walk back to your towel for a refreshing return. Pure thrill for your first swim!
Île de Ré boasts 100 km of dedicated cycle paths, making biking a must-do. Rent bikes from Yoo Too in Saint-Martin or Les Cycles in Ars-en-Ré. Foodies love the route from Saint-Martin to La Couarde, hugging the waves and vineyards, with stops at oyster huts for fresh seafood and crisp white wine. For scenic beauty, pedal from Ars-en-Ré to Les Portes through the marshes, where rabbits dart by amid dune immortelle, mustard scents, and birdsong. At Les Portes, spot familiar faces like Vincent Lindon and Sandrine Kiberlain (discretion is key), then unwind at Lilleau (2, rue Jules-David) for drinks or dinner.
A haven for migratory birds, Île de Ré is a key stopover—the black-winged stilt and whitethroat call it home, while others pause en route to Siberia. Remarkable fact: a sandwich tern ringed in South Africa was spotted here after a 12,000 km journey. Dive deeper at the Maison du Fier or join guided walks in the nature reserve. Budding artists can join watercolorist Laurence Jean Bart (book via iledere-loix.fr).
In Ars-en-Ré, Marie & Benoît (37, rue du Havre) stocks vintage military gear from France, Switzerland, Italy, Czech Republic, and Russia—like faded Czech tablecloths or Superga fabrics for the Italian army. Parisian kids' designer By Sophie sets up summer shop in Les Portes-en-Ré (20, rue Jules-David). For toddlers in Saint-Martin, Little Casba (1 bis, Petite-Rue-du-Marché) shines with original toys, screen prints, and stylish graphic tees—near Iloya (21, rue de Sully) for chic adult brands. Hit the flea market in La Couarde-sur-Mer, where L'Heure Bleue curates charming 17th- to 1950s-era objects.
Fall for Les Huîtres de Trousse-Chemise (route de la Levée-Verte, Les Portes-en-Ré)—thread past the golf course to this rustic spot amid wild marshes. Savor oysters, whelks, prawns, langoustines, or simple crisps, ham, and ice cream outdoors. Post-Ars market, try Au Goûter Breton (48, rue du Havre) for stellar crêpes. In Saint-Martin, gourmet bistro Les Embruns (6, passage Chay-Morin) wows with seasonal dishes.
Ready to go!
Where to Stay?
In Ars-en-Ré, Hôtel Le Sénéchal***, steps from the market, feels like a home away from home.
In Saint-Martin, the fairy-tale Hôtel de Toiras***** is perfect for romance—dine at its exquisite Table d’Olivia too.
More info: www.iledere.com.
