Picture paradise atop a dormant hell: Lake Toba spans 1,100 km² within a massive volcanic crater. At its heart lies Samosir Island, an Eden-like haven perfect for leisurely escapes. Both emerged from a supervolcano eruption that blanketed the planet in ash millions of years ago. Yet, Samosir's rugged allure draws travelers to Tuk Tuk peninsula guesthouses like Tabo Cottage. Caldera shores offer petite beaches for savoring lake-grilled fish against stunning horizons. It's pure bliss—though we note the volcano has slumbered for 75,000 years.
A grueling 3-hour, 90 km drive from Medan reveals Gunung Leuser National Park, prime territory for spotting 'forest men.' Sharing over 95% DNA with humans, orangutans thrive wild only in Sumatra and Borneo. Rangers at Bukit Lawang lure these endangered primates with bananas; watch infants cling as mothers swing branch to branch. Beyond the old rehab center, trek for 'nests' in treetops. Encounters range from legendary Mina—who's nipped 60 guides—to friendlier macaques and Thomas's leaf monkeys with their signature gray crests and mohawks.
Sumatra's lush, untamed wilderness demands bucket showers and leech-proof socks on park trails. Spot anti-poaching patrols atop elephants, then retreat to jungle eco-lodges alive with crickets and gibbon calls. Surprisingly, modern comforts fade fast amid this immersive adventure.
Diverse ethnic groups enrich Sumatra's tapestry. The Batak's iconic boat-roofed homes boast intricate paintings, sculptures, masks, and buffalo-head guardians. In Pematang Purba, explore the restored Simalungun royal palace. Ambarita on Samosir shelters royal sarcophagi—towering stone tombs etched with ancestors' faces. Nearby, a justice stone recalls Batak cannibalism, abandoned since the 19th century.
Beyond Goa and Kathmandu, 1960s-70s hippies flocked to Sumatra from Malaysia, island-hopping to Bali. Overshadowed since, it's now reachable by flight and speedboat from Singapore. Local roads? Drivers quip 'elephant nests' for potholes!
Ready to go? Book with Asia, www.asia.fr. Paris-Medan via Singapore Airlines, www.singaporeair.com.
