At the base of the cliff lie the bustling commercial and residential districts. Seventy meters above sits the historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Connect the two effortlessly via the iconic Lacerda Elevator, positioned at the foot of the craft market since 1873. Elevated in the Pelourinho neighborhood—named for its pillory—this colonial gem boasts cobbled streets, pastel-hued mansions with ornate wrought-iron balconies, and magnificent Baroque churches. Revitalized in 1993, it's now a top tourist draw (stay vigilant against pickpockets), yet utterly rewarding for its architecture and vibrant energy. Bahian women in turbans, lace-trimmed white dresses, and colorful jewelry pose for photos amid vendors selling acarajé—spicy prawn-stuffed bean fritters fried in palm oil. Elders push carts of curios, men play dominoes at pop-up tables. Evenings pulse with samba, axé, and a muy caliente atmosphere.
Churches dominate the landscape, inescapable and impressive—even for non-devouts. The Basilica Cathedral, once a Jesuit church where the first bishop reportedly met a grim fate at the hands of indigenous people, competes with São Francisco's Baroque opulence: gold-leafed walls, jacaranda wood choir and sacristy, and stunning azulejo tiles. At Praça da Pólvora, the 18th-century Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People—built by enslaved Africans—blends Catholic sermons with rhythmic percussion on Tuesday nights behind its striking blue facade. On Itapagipe Peninsula, the renowned Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim overlooks the sea. Inside the Room of Miracles, gaze at hanging prostheses, thankful letters, and photos, then tie a fita ribbon—symbolizing three wishes—around your wrist.
Bahia's culture fuses Portuguese Catholicism, indigenous shamanism, and candomblé—the African-derived possession cult brought by enslaved people. Around Lake Tororó, fringed by mango, flamboyant, and jackfruit trees, spot statues of orixás, the revered African deities. Select terreiro (temples) welcome visitors, offering glimpses into initiation rites with trance-inducing dances and chants.
The Bay of All Saints lives up to its name with endless beaches. Porto da Barra, the see-and-be-seen spot between Santo Antônio and Santa Maria forts, offers lounge chairs for 2 reais daily. Sip caipirinhas or beer while swimming, playing volleyball, and watching the sunset. Post-Carnival, it becomes a massive open-air festival with concerts and screenings. For tranquility, ferry to Itaparica Island and follow the Coconut Route to idyllic Praia do Forte.
At Forte de Santo Antônio or Praça da Pólvora, capoeiristas blend dance, martial arts, and music—collecting tips afterward. Born from enslaved Africans disguising combat as play, this fusion of tribal fights, rhythms, and songs symbolizes Bahia and Brazil.
Ready to go? Fly with LATAM (formerly TAM Airlines). Stay at Pousada das Flores in Santo Antônio, featuring antique furnishings and canopy beds, or the luxurious former Carmo Convent (1586)—even dine by candlelight in its chapel.
