With 90% of Armenia's territory above 1,000 meters, the landscapes are incredibly varied and hilly. Departing Yerevan in the morning, I crossed vast steppes before linking up with the ancient Silk Road. While trucks now handle trade between Iran and Georgia instead of mules and camels, the panoramic view from Selim Pass (2,410 m) remains jaw-dropping. Buzzards soared alongside our vehicle, we spotted 'gauchos' herding their livestock, and by Lake Sevan, fishermen offered fresh salmon trout, crayfish, or smoked whitefish roadside. After Sevan Pass (2,114 m), the scenery transformed again: rolling pine forests, chalet-style homes. Waking up in Haghpat, near the Georgian border, was the perfect finale. The Qefilyan hotel overlooks the misty green gorges of the Debed River—welcome to 'Armenian Switzerland'! It's surreal to think we started in near-desert expanses and barren mountains just the day before.
As the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion in 301 AD, Armenia boasts churches and monasteries renowned for their architecture and settings. Geghard, carved into rock; Khor Virap, with mythical Mount Ararat (now in Turkey but eternally Armenian in spirit) in view; Noravank, rising from a canyon; Sevanavank above Lake Sevan; Haghpat with its intricate khachkars ('stone crosses'); Akhtala's Byzantine frescoes. Don't miss Garni, the sole surviving pagan temple overlooking the Azad River and its basaltic organ valley—these ancient sites left a deeper impression than anticipated. In Etchmiadzin, the 'Vatican' of the Armenian Apostolic Church, I attended a packed Sunday mass in the cathedral and even met the Catholicos, the Armenians' spiritual leader.
Lake Sevan offers water sports and summer swimming, plus hydrotherapy, hiking, horseback riding, paragliding, canyoning, and skiing. The diverse terrain enables it all, even if infrastructure is evolving. Armenia stands out as an offbeat destination blending East and West, with scenery changing at every bend. I was fascinated by Molokan villages (Russian settlers akin to Mormons) north of Lake Sevan and Yazidi communities in Spitak Valley.
Though echoing Soviet architecture, the capital revitalizes with pink tuff facades. La Cascade, built in the 1970s, now a contemporary art museum, showcases Botero sculptures, Gorky paintings, and massive Swarovski installations—climb for epic city and Ararat views. The new North Avenue from Republic Square to Freedom Square rivals Abovian Street's 19th-century charm with luxury shops and terraces. My top picks: 1/ Matenadaran museum's 1,000 illuminated manuscripts. 2/ The Blue Mosque's tiled serenity amid bustle. 3/ The vibrant locals (one-third of Armenians live here)—from guide Alina to football crowds at Republic Square fountains, their energy is infectious.
Absolutely! Armenia's cuisine fuses Turkish, Greek, Lebanese, Russian, and Syrian influences—best savored family-style. In Garni, I lunched under vines at Sergei’s, watching lavash (traditional bread) bake in underground ovens. Paired with herb-infused cheeses, mezes like basturma (spiced dried beef), stuffed vine leaves, bureks; then dolmas, khorovats (meat skewers), baklava, and fruits (apricots, pomegranates, watermelons, plums). Finish with finely ground 'Oriental' coffee in a cezve. No doubt—I'll return soon!
With specialist Saberatours agency. From €1,250 for the 7-day 'Pearls of Armenia' tour (meals, flights included), visiting Yerevan, Sevan, Garni, Geghard, Khor Virap, Noravank, Etchmiadzin. Or €1,700 for 11-day 'Noah's Land'. www.voyageenarmenie.com, 01 42 61 51 13.
For comfortable Yerevan stays: Europe Hotel, www.europehotel.am. Attentive French-speaking staff.
To read: 'Petit Futé' Armenia, €15.95. 'Armenian Cuisine' by Nathalie Baravian, Actes Sud, €29.50.
Info: Embassy of Armenia, 01 42 12 98 00.
