As an experienced traveler, I first felt the effects of altitude in Cusco at 3,400 meters—nausea and shortness of breath. A soothing mate infusion helped, but Machu Picchu at 2,400 meters let me roam freely. Arriving at dawn, the site emerged from the mist, sending shivers down my spine. How did the Quechua build this 15th-century marvel in such isolation? The mystery endures. For a stunning panorama, I hiked an hour to the Gate of the Sun, a steep but rewarding path popular with trekkers from Cusco.
Perched on oceanfront cliffs, Lima's UNESCO-listed historic center boasts colonial architecture and ornate churches. On the Plaza de Armas, I witnessed a lively procession with a brass band—pure magic. At Taberna Queirolo, I mastered the art of crafting and savoring Pisco Sour, Peru's iconic cocktail (proceed with caution—it's dangerously delicious). In bohemian Barranco, I wandered streets of seaside villas, visited Mario Testino's Mate photo center, and browsed thriving contemporary galleries. Don't miss Miraflores, where I sipped coffee while trying on unique T-shirts from emerging designers at Lama Unknown Worldwide.
The hub for Machu Picchu via train or a 3-4 day trek, Cusco—once the Inca 'navel of the world'—overflows with treasures like Koricancha, the Temple of the Sun. Explore Hatun Rumiyoc's alleys, where Inca stones underpin Spanish colonial walls from 1533. The market enchanted me with vibrant produce, dehydrated lightweight potatoes, fresh juices, and handicrafts. I sourced authentic alpaca sweaters and wool balls from hidden shops where local grandmothers knit traditional hats.
In Umasbamba, 30 km from Cusco, the Virgen Purificada Umasbamba association invites visitors for home-cooked meals. I joined village women in traditional attire to prepare lunch (peeling potatoes was my contribution), amid infectious laughter. A guinea pig arrival surprised me—it was the festive main course! I graciously passed, but the experience highlighted Peru's growing rural tourism.
Peruvian food dazzles with fusion flavors from Nikkei (Japanese), Chifa (Chinese), and Creole influences. Chef Gastón Acurio elevated it globally, helming spots like Paris' Manko and founding Lima's Culinary Institute of Pachacutec, training underprivileged youth. Inspired locals now aspire to chef stardom over soccer. At his La Mar Cebicheria, fresh ceviche was divine. Virgilio Martínez's Central introduced me to Amazonian delights—a taste bud revelation.
Jet Tours offers a 12-day/9-night all-inclusive circuit with flights, guides, and full board. Fly Paris-Lima via Air France.
Stay:
Hotel B, Lima (Relais & Châteaux member).
Niños Hotel, Cusco (NGO-supported for children).
More info: Peru Tourist Office.
